The Solenoid Water Valve – Plastic, Normally Closed works like an electric faucet. Apply 12 V DC and the coil pulls the plunger; the path opens. Cut power and the spring shuts it again. It’s a valve, not a pump, so it won’t pull water by itself. For flow, feed it from a faucet, a small pump, or a raised tank. Use it for plant watering, dispensers, or aquarium top-offs. Inlet/Outlet: the inlet is the smooth, large opening the outlet is the side with the built-in mesh/strainer.
Parts in your photo (and what they do):
- Valve body (white, two threaded ports): houses the passages; shows flow direction.
- Diaphragm + rubber seal (black disk): seals the main port; lifts to allow flow.
- Pilot seat/nozzle (clear plastic): small orifice the plunger controls.
- Plunger: moves when powered to open the pilot.
- Spring: pushes the plunger closed when power is off.
- Coil Plate: creates the magnetic pull that actuates the plunger.
You can test it without water. Touch 12 V to the two coil pins and listen for a clean click. Remove power and you should hear a second click. You can also feel strong magnetism on the metal cap while powered. No click or pull? Check your supply, polarity, and coil resistance.
When you install it, follow the flow arrow from inlet → outlet. Wrap threads with PTFE tape and stay within the rated pressure. Keep a small pre-filter on the inlet if water has grit. Purge trapped air after plumbing to prevent airlock. Don’t leave the coil on for long unless it’s continuous-duty. With these basics, you can deploy the valve with confidence—and reuse what you learned on your next project.
Components:
For this setup we used a 12 V normally-closed solenoid valve, a 12 V 1 A DC adapter, a female DC plug terminal to break out the adapter leads, and two tin-plated hookup wires—red for +12 V and black for ground—for clean, low-resistance connections.
